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SiddharthaTibetan
Terriers


Question:
I have never had a dog before. Would you recommend a Tibetan Terrier?
ANSWER: It really depends on what you expect from a dog. If you want
a robotic instantly obedient dog, a Tibetan Terrier is not for you. If
you want a dog that can think for themselves, be independent and arrogant,
have an inscrutable nature, and a sense of humour and fun second to none,
then get a Tibetan Terrier. There are people who have had puppies and
just could not cope with their nature, and the `shock' and challenges of
owning a Tibetan Terrier. Max was returned to me because his owners could
not cope with his TT-ness. He loves kids of all ages. He is so laid back
he is almost horizontal, a family dog, no ifs and buts about it. He would
fit in anywhere, and fall in with any activity or lack thereof. Maggie, on
the other hand, is a whole different ball game, although she is also great
with kids. If there is a different way to do something Maggie will find
it. Getting her to do as she told is a game of wits, and boy can she
bark. Molly is a lady through and through, but again does things in
her own way, in her own time. Leah is a cuddler
and her sister Jill is a hooligan, indeed she is a loveable rogue. Zoe is a doll and her daughter Tara can find mud and dirt in sterile environment (she is white),
can manufacture a mat two seconds after being bathed and groomed, and
loses enough hair to stuff a mattress. Jake is an out and out thief;
leave down your cup of tea, your glasses, the book are trying to read, and
off he goes with it through the flap. The amount of things I find in the
garden you would not believe, and as for the remote control, that is dead
and buried somewhere along with a large stash of various items, and like
his mother he is a muck-lark. Gus is a nibbler rather than a kisser,
and though he arrived here at eighteen months old, he settled right in,
but took a while to gain confidence in the show ring. Now he shows like an
old trooper. They are all different, all individual
thinkers, but they all share a great capacity for love, and fun. Tibetan
Terriers are a family dog, but are you the family for them?
Question:
Why are they
called Terriers if they are not?
Answer:
When they
were first registered with the Indian Kennel Club most small dogs were
registered as “Terriers”. The English Kennel Club subsequently registered
them as “Lhasa Terriers”, but in the 1930s this was split into two
distinct breeds the Lhasa Apso and the Tibetan Terrier, and the “terrier”
name stayed. They are simply misnamed, as true terriers go to ground, and
are shown in the Terrier Class, whilst Tibetan Terriers are shown in the
Companion/Non Sporting/Utility classes.
Question:
Do Tibetan Terriers
bark?
Answer:
Yes they
tend to bark at unusual noises as it is their instinct to warn us, but
they can be trained to stop once you have been alerted to what they
perceive as a threat. They are not a yappy or barky dog, but when they
miss their people they have been know to get up to all kinds of mischief
to get attention, and this includes barking.
Question:
Are Tibetan Terriers
non-allergenic?
Answer:
This
really depends on the degree of allergy. I personally would welcome the
sufferer to come to my home and spend some hours with my dogs. So far I
have seen no reaction to their hair, but that is not to say it could not happen at some
time in the future. I myself have asthma, as have two of my sons, but we
live quite happily with our Tibetan mob and no ill affects. However, I
think it best to place a puppy in this situation only if the family live
nearby and I can monitor their progress, so that the puppy can be returned
immediately if it does not work out. Travelling any great distance is out
of the question, as this would be too upsetting for the puppy.
Sadly, I did have one puppy returned from an excellent home because his
poor owner got an allergic reaction to the puppy kisses.
Question:
What method of
identification is best; microchip or tattoo?
Answer:
We have
been micro-chipping our adults and puppies for many years now here at
Siddhartha, and fully endorse the microchip as a safe and secure means of
identification. Our puppies rarely bat an eyelid when the chip is
implanted, though some of the boys tend to complain a little, but it is
soon forgotten, and the adults don’t seem to notice at all.
Question:
What should I
expect within the first few days of bringing my puppy home in terms of
behaviour and health?
Answer:
When you
first take a puppy home there is a stress associated with the change in
environment. Some puppies will exhibit a decrease in appetite (they have
no competition from their littermates now). At no time should your puppy
be lethargic or completely stop eating or drinking. The puppy you purchase
from “SIDDHARTHA” will be Vet checked, and all vaccinations will be
current for the age of the puppy. Your new puppy should be active,
playful, and curious. If at any time you think your puppy is not behaving
normally you should contact Maureen for advice or seek Veterinary care.
Question:
Will my new puppy
cry at night?
Answer:
Most
puppies will cry at night for the first few days until they settle into
their new home. Try letting him see you at night for a week or so. You
could place the crate where you can touch it. I have spent many a night
with my fingers through a cage. They are pretty obsessed about being near
their people. If this does not work, try letting him cry for a few
nights. It will soon end. The worst thing you can do is go to him while
he is crying and take him out of his crate. The little devils soon
cotton on that crying is a way to get attention. He could also be crying
because he needs the toilet, so make sure he has gone before you put him
to bed.
Question:
How often (and
how much) should I feed my puppy each day?
Answer:
Your
puppy should have access to water 24/7. Puppies are not in the habit of
over eating and will only gorge themselves if food is withheld. Most
Tibetan Terrier puppies will eat between one and one and a half cups of
food each day divided into three or four meals – see our section called ‘Puppy
Advice’ for the regime we follow.
Question:
Are their
certain puppy snacks that I should avoid feeding my puppy?
Answer:
You
should avoid all snacks that are not sold or marketed as a puppy treat.
Remember some treats are high in sugar and should be limited in the amount
that you feed to your puppy. Also, giving treats is an excellent training
aid and reward but, giving too much will only cause your puppy to eat less
of its puppy food which is the best nutrition for your puppy. Snacks and
treats can always be broken or cut into smaller pieces; a puppy will
respond to a small treat just as well as a large piece. Tibetan
Terriers love carrots, and this is a healthier less expensive option.
I would never, ever, recommend rawhide chews.
SPECIAL
NOTE REGARDING CHOCOLATE:-
Chocolate can be fatal to dogs and the vet
gave me this ratio to work on. 10 gm of choc per per 1 kilo of
dog weight. Most tts are close to 10 kilo so vet says - Fatal is 70
gms of dark chocolate - milk choc they need a bit more.
It really is not very much when you think on the size of bars these
days. I wish people could be more aware of this dark chocolate
effect on dogs especially the 70% cocoa bars.
Question:
How often
should I give my puppy a bath?
Answer: Baths can
be given as often as once a week, and as needed in between. You can use a
gentle puppy shampoo, but because the hair on your Tibetan Terrier is so
much like human hair, I generally use L’oreal for Kids, as it won’t sting
their eyes. You should still be careful not to get any shampoo in the
eyes, as it will frighten the puppy. Remember, keep bathing as a routine;
this will decrease the anxiety for the puppy and you.
Question:
How do I house
break my puppy?
Answer: We
encourage and recommend Crate Training. This method could cut house
breaking time in half. The basic method of crate training is to place the
puppy in the crate any time you can not watch the puppy. When the door is
open the first duty for your puppy is to go to the bath room. Stay with
your puppy during the training process; always go to the same spot; wait
until your puppy eliminates; and then reward and praise your puppy. The
cage/crate will be your puppies sleeping and eating place. Instinctively
your puppy will try not to eliminate where they eat and sleep. Remember,
be consistent and use positive reinforcement to reward good behaviour.
Other methods are newspaper, puppy pads, and puppy litter - see our
section called ‘Housebreaking’
for further advice.
Question:
How do I keep
my puppy from chewing on the furniture, shoes, etc?
Answer: The best
way to keep your puppy from chewing on inappropriate objects is to provide
toys and treats for your puppy to chew on. Start from day one, teaching
your puppy what "No" means. Move the puppy away from anything you do not
want the puppy to chew on and give the puppy one of its own toys. Keeping
the puppy in its cage crate when you are not at home or are sleeping will
provide a safe place for your puppy and prevent the puppy from harming
itself or your belongings.
Question: How often
should I take my puppy to the Vet for a check up?
Answer:
All
puppies purchased from “SIDDHARTHA” will be Vet checked and vaccinated age
appropriate. In fact most times they are fully vaccinated, however if not,
we will give you a date as to when the next vaccination is
due. This is the next date you should visit your Vet. In most cases your
puppy will need a booster vaccination sometime between one and three weeks
from the date of purchase. Your Vet will schedule any further vaccinations
that your puppy will need. Routine checkups are not necessary for your
puppy unless you feel there is a need for your puppy to see a Vet, so long
as you can look after worm and flea treatments yourself.
Question:
What should I
do with my puppy when I have to leave the house? Is it ok to crate him?
Answer: We
believe your puppy should definitely be crated anytime you leave your
home. This will keep the puppy safe and give you the peace of mind that
nothing will be chewed and accidents will not be happening all around your
house. Puppies feel comfortable in a small space such as a crate and soon
will recognize the crate as its home. If not using a crate, always provide
a safe environment for your puppy while you are gone. And, as always,
whether using a crate or not, your puppy must have access to food and
water at all times.
Question:
How often
should I exercise my puppy?
Answer:
Puppies
are very active. Most puppies will receive adequate exercise with normal
activity and playing in your home. Remember, walking on a leash is a
learned behaviour and will take some time and training for your puppy to
master. Walking should be introduced gradually – no strenuous long walks
until your puppy has matured sufficiently to be able to take it in his
stride.
Question:
What type of crate
should I buy?
Answer:
We
recommend the wire crate for in house and show use, as they have a greater
air flow, puppy can see all around him, cause less static electricity on
long coats, and fold up easily. We also use the wire crates on Ferry
crossings, but use the plastic Vari-Kennels on flights.
Question:
Should my dog be
sedated for a flight?
Answer:
No! My
vet very kindly explained to me; that under sedation blood pressure drops
and high altitude would cause it to drop even further, so sedation is not
recommended, and I personally have found that Tibetan Terriers travel very
well without any ill effects.
Question:
What information do
you provide to new owners?
Answer:
We
provide a puppy kit, which includes a puppy manual, tips on raising a Tibetan
Terrier, health and shot records, pictures of the parents, eye
certificates and hip score certificates for the parents, suggestions on
training, information on hereditary problems, recommendations on brushes,
shampoo and things like that, pictures of puppy at different ages
from birth onward, a picture of the litter together, full colour
pedigrees, registration documents, i.e.. change of ownership form, contract, microchip details, and
lists of Tibetan Terrier reference books, advice on feeding, grooming and
general care. Included are also a bowl or two, a toy, sometimes a
blanket, some recommended treats, and of course food, both tinned and
dried.
Question:
I wonder if you
could tell me if Pancreatitis is a problem you have come across with any
of your dogs. Tinkerbelle, our Tibetan, is three and a half years of age
and is recovering well from being very very ill. Lots of testing and an
x-ray later and many things were eliminated as being the cause. The vets
came to the conclusion from the testing that it was Pancreatitis and
though not curable the symptoms would be treatable.
Answer:
Pancreatitis
is not something I have ever come across in my own dogs, however the TTCA
commissioned a health survey in 2003. Approximately 200 surveys were
returned by people living with over 740 dogs, and the results in relation
to pancreatitis were.
Midwest |
North West |
Can./Europe |
North East |
South East |
South West |
CA & HI |
Totals |
1 |
|
1 |
3 |
2 |
1 |
2 |
10 |
Pancreatitis can be acute or
chronic and mild or severe. Vomiting and abdominal pain are key clinical
signs in dogs with pancreatitis. Radiographic findings are
non specific but ultrasonographic findings can be quite specific. Serum
amylase and lipase activity are of limited usefulness in the dog.
Serum TLI concentration is specific for exocrine pancreatic function but
lacks sensitivity. Serum PLI concentration is the most sensitive and
specific diagnostic tool for pancreatitis in dogs. The following
article on
Pancreatitis (Inflammation) by
Holly Nash, DVM, MS
Veterinary
Services Department, Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc., may be of some interest to
you, so I have reprinted it in full.
The
pancreas is a
V-shaped organ located behind the stomach and the first section of the
small intestine, the duodenum. It has two main functions: it aids in
metabolism of sugar in the body through the production of
insulin, and
is necessary for the digestion of
nutrients by
producing pancreatic
enzymes.
These enzymes help the body promote the digestion and absorption of fats.
Acute pancreatitis is a sudden onset of pancreatic
inflammation.
Causes - Multiple factors can contribute to the development of
pancreatitis. Certain medications, infections; metabolic disorders
including hyperlipidemia (high amounts of lipid in the blood) and
hypercalcemia (high amounts of calcium in the blood); and trauma and shock
can be associated with the development of pancreatitis. Middle-aged dogs
appear to be at increased risk of developing pancreatitis; as a breed,
Schnauzers and Yorkshire Terriers appear to be more prone to pancreatitis.
Nutrition also plays a role. Dogs with diets high in fat, or dogs who
'steal' or are fed greasy 'people food' seem to have a high incidence of
the disease. Symptoms - Common symptoms
of the acute form of pancreatitis in dogs include a very painful abdomen,
abdominal distention, lack of appetite, depression, dehydration, a
'hunched up' posture, vomiting, diarrhea and yellow, greasy stool. Fever
often accompanies these symptoms. Animals with more severe disease can
develop heart
arrhythmias,
sepsis (body-wide infection), difficulty breathing, and a life-threatening
condition called disseminated intravascular coagulation (DIC), which
results in multiple
hemorrhages.
If the inflammation is severe, organs surrounding the pancreas could be 'autodigested'
by pancreatic enzymes released from the damaged pancreas and become
permanently damaged. Diagnosis - The
diagnosis of pancreatitis is made through information obtained from the
history, the physical exam, and laboratory testing.
Dogs with pancreatitis generally have an increased blood levels of the
pancreatic enzymes called
amylase and
lipase. If
the
liver also
becomes inflamed, liver enzymes as measured in the blood may be increased.
A rather new test,
serum
trypsin-like immunoreactivity, may prove to be a valuable diagnostic aid.
The
white blood cell
count is generally increased in acute pancreatitis. Radiography (x-rays)
and ultrasound can also help in making the diagnosis.
Biopsy can
result in a conclusive diagnosis, but is not commonly performed.
Treatment - The goal of treatment is to
rest the pancreas, provide supportive care and control complications.
Treatment always begins with a withholding of food, water, and oral
medications for at least 24 hours. The lack of oral intake stops the
stimulation of the pancreas to produce digestive enzymes. Depending upon
the animal's response, food intake can be started again after a few days.
The dog is generally fed small meals of a bland, easily digestible,
low-fat food. Over the course of a week or more, the size of meals and
quantity of food fed are increased. The dog may need to stay on the
special diet for life, or it may be possible to gradually reintroduce the
former diet. The second major component of treatment is fluid therapy.
Dehydration and
electrolyte
imbalances are common in dogs with acute pancreatitis, and water intake is
often restricted so fluid therapy is usually needed. Fluids are either
given
subcutaneously
or
intravenous.
Dogs who are experiencing severe pain can be treated with pain relievers
such as meperidine or butorphanol. Antibiotics are often administered
prophylactically to protect against infection. If the pancreatitis was
caused by a medication, the medication should be stopped. If it was caused
by a toxin, infection, or other condition, appropriate therapy for the
underlying condition should be started. In rare instances, where there are
intestinal complications or the development of a pancreatic abscess,
surgery may be necessary.
Long-term management and prognosis. Pancreatitis can be a
very unpredictable disease. In most cases, if the pancreatitis was mild
and the pet only had one episode, chances of recovery are good, and
avoiding high fat foods may be all that is necessary to prevent recurrence
or complications. In other cases, what appears to be a mild case may
progress, or may be treated successfully only to have recurrences,
sometimes severe. Dogs with severe pancreatitis can recover, but may also
develop fatal complications. The risk of developing fatal pancreatitis is
increased in dogs who are overweight, or have
diabetes mellitus,
hyperadrenocorticism,
hypothyroidism,
gastrointestinal tract
disease, and
epilepsy. Pets who
have repeated bouts of pancreatitis may need to be fed low-fat diets to
prevent recurrence. Even so, some animals develop
chronic
pancreatitis, which can lead to diabetes mellitus and/or
pancreatic insufficiency,
also called 'maldigestion syndrome.' In pancreatic insufficiency, the
nutrients in food are passed out in the feces undigested. An animal with
this disease often has a ravenous appetite, diarrhea, and weight loss.
Even though he is eating, he could literally starve to death. Treatment
for pancreatic insufficiency is lifelong and expensive, but is possible.
The pet's digestive enzymes are replaced through a product processed from
pancreases of hogs and cattle which contain large quantities of the
digestive enzymes. A change in diet with added nutritional supplements may
also be necessary. Summary - Acute
pancreatitis can be a life-threatening condition, and early recognition
and treatment can improve chances of recovery. In dogs, fever, lack of
appetite, depression, and vomiting are the most common signs. Treatment is
based upon stopping all oral intake to rest the pancreas, correcting the
dehydration and maintaining proper fluid and electrolyte balances, and
treating any complications or underlying conditions.
Question:
Secondly -
this morning we have removed a tick - horrid things aren't they - from
under Tinks chin. I treat her for worms and fleas every month as we live
in the country and thought this would deal with things like ticks too but
obviously not. Can you post info about ticks on your site. They are horrid
things and can you say what effect, long or short term, they are likely to
have on the dogs. Tinks bedding is washed regularly as she is and treated
regularly too. She is a beautiful pet and we want to do the best for her.
Answer:
With mild winters and spring moisture a threat to your pet
increases …. ticks. In the countryside areas ticks are in the bushes in
record numbers waiting to pounce on you and your pets. Ticks crawl on and
attach to the skin of their hosts in the nymph, larva, and adult stages.
They then feed on the host’s blood. They leave each host between stages to
molt and grow. Dogs, etc., can actually develop blood loss anemia with
heavy infestations. Ticks are attracted to hosts by motion, changes in
light, warmth, and increased carbon dioxide levels. Tick bites are
painless but local irritation and infections can occur. Salivary
secretions of neurotoxins may cause diseases such as tick paralysis Ticks
are carriers of many diseases infecting people and their pets. Tick-borne
pathogens may affect virtually any organ system. Ticks should be
removed quickly to limit time available for neurotoxin or pathogen
transmission. Check your dog thoroughly after a romp through the
bushes and fields. Ticks are smooth, round or oval lumps attached by a
tiny mouth to the skin. They can be difficult to see, especially on dark
or thick-coated dogs. Grasp the tick close to the skin with fine pointed
tweezers and gently pull free. Wash the region with soap and water to
prevent local inflammation and infection. Hot matches, nail polish and
Vaseline are usually ineffective and prolong the attachment. Bathing,
spraying or powdering the pet with appropriate products, can also kill
ticks. Consult your veterinarian and avoid these unwelcome passengers on
you and your dog. For further information click
here.

©
Siddhartha
Tibetan Terriers Ireland
 
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